Egon Schiele

I decided to go forth with my "rag doll" design for my "runaway" themed look. This design deals with the manipulation and exploitation of females. I also want the makeup to express this. I have generated one initial makeup design to accompany the outfit. I decided to look at the Austrian artist Egon Schiele for inspiration, famous for his sexually explicit, deformed and degrading depiction of women which dominates his work. I think his style relates very much to my theme.


Egon Schiele, a protégé of the artist Gustav Klimt was active during the early 20th century. Schiele's paintings were predominantly of young nude women either in erotic poses or performing sexual acts. His paintings of the human figure are quite realistic but his lines are distorted and his forms, warped and grotesque so his style is very expressionist. 

I think Schiele's paintings can be interpreted in many different ways. His paintings show human sexuality at its most raw  and  liberated. The subjects are upfront, unapologetic, with genitals explicitly on show. These images could be seen as vulgar and tasteless but the fact that they are un sugared and the women are not trying to hide anything make them a lot more honest. Throughout history, female sexuality has come second to male sexuality. Although the artist is male, these images could be seen as feminist art. The subjects could be seen as strong confrontational women, defiant and in control of their own sexuality. 

However, on another hand the fact that the images are very pornographic could depict women solely as sexual objects made for the pleasure of men. The twisted lines employed by Schiele show how he thinks he can manipulate these women and the grotesque forms could express a view that female sexuality is something ugly and shameful. Schiele employed young local girls who were often minors and prostitutes to be his models. These groups are generally more vulnerable and so probably easily manipulated. This indicates that the artist did not regard women as worthy of respect. In most of his images we are looking down at the subject, showing that the artist views these women as inferior and degraded. The subjects are extremely exposed and vulnerable. The fact that we are observing them in such intimate situations makes us, the viewer, feel very intrusive and disrespectful of their privacy.


Woman touching her breast



Reclining woman with blonde hair



The scornful woman
This woman is half dressed and scowling, half trying to cover herself up like the viewer has intruded her privacy.



Female nude 2



Sitting feminine act



Lying woman



Two young girls



Reclining nude with black stockings



 Research Resources:
http://www.egon-schiele.net/
http://www.ibiblio.org/wm/paint/auth/schiele/
http://www.schiele-egon.com/
http://www.artchive.com/artchive/S/schiele.html
http://www.moma.org/interactives/exhibitions/1997/schiele/artistwork.html

Gareth Pugh

I have said that I want at least one of my designs to have an architectural aspect. I have researched the English fashion designer Gareth Pugh, whose style is also very architectural. He experiments with form and volume a lot. I have analysed a select few of my favourite designs.

The shoulder pads and skirt are very sculptural. These forms are similar to my designs when I experimented with folding paper. The shoulder pads make the model look strong and defiant. The sculptural style has a huge impact.

The neck ruff makes the outfit look very theatrical. I like the way he has experimented with form by significantly exaggerating the hips. This is similar to one of my initial designs where I expanded the hips and shoulders.

I love the sharp angles and pyramid shapes incorporated into this design. I also experiment with pyramid shapes with folded paper. I think they give a very strong and fierce visual impact.

The edges are softer in this design. I like how he has experimented with unconventional methods of creating shape and volume (air filled bags). I like how he alters the human form with clothes while still creating a very attractive silhouette.

The structures in this design look very rigid. It reminds me of my scaffolding design as it uses stiff materials rather than conventional materials to create a solid structure. I like the way lines have been used to create a new form. I like the unconventional structures that have been added to the body.

Gaudi

My final "cancer patient" design will incorporate a scaffolding like structure. I also experimented with creating structures using folding techniques. I want at least one of my final designs to have an architectural aspect to them. I have looked at the famous Catalan architect Antonio Gaudi for his unique and distinct architectural style which I hope will influence my work. I am also visiting Barcelona next week where I will be visiting the Sagrada Familia and the Casa Museu Gaudi, two of Gaudi's most famous structures.

Sagrada Familia:

Casa Batllo (another famous building designed by Gaudi):

Research Analysis:

The forms in Gaudi's work are very organic and fluid. He uses minimal sharp angles. Almost all edges are smooth and curved. His designs are very balanced and symmetrical. He also includes lots of intricate details. His structures look very ethereal and ornate. I have sketched a few of the shapes and forms from Gaudi's work in my sketch book.

Research Resources:

http://architect.architecture.sk/antonio-gaudi-architect/antonio-gaudi-architect.php 

Frida Kahlo

Outfit design one , one of the 3 runaway designs I have chosen to develop, shows a set of what are supposed to represent umbilical chords, extending from the abdomen. This is supposed to symbolise the subject being painfully bound to her neglectful or abusive mother. No matter how much the subject tries to escape, she is still her mother and impacts her life, even if it's painful.

I have chosen to look at the Mexican surrealist painter, Frida Kahlo, who also portrays themes of mother and child and emotional pain.

Below is Frida's painting Henry Ford Hospital. When Frida was a teenager, she was involved in a terrible bus accident which fractured her pelvis and back, leaving her in great physical pain for the rest of her life. Her uterus was also damaged in the accident which left her unable to bear children. Frida often portrayed the heartbreak of not being able to have children in her paintings. The painting below, in which she is the subject, followed her second miscarriage. She lies naked on a bed, her belly slightly swollen and blood coming from her reproductive organs. A single tear comes from her left eye, portraying her sadness. Frida has painted herself holding 6 red extended pieces of string to her abdomen, which resemble umbilical chords. This is extremely similar to my design. Tied to the ends of the umbilical chords are things that relate to the miscarriage. An unborn foetus is attached to one string from its belly button, where a real umbilical chord would extend from. The foetus symbolises the child Frida is unable to have. The snail symbolises the slow process and heartbreak of the miscarriage. The pinkish object in the top left hand corner is Frida's portrayal of "the insides of a woman". The orchid was a gift given to her by her then husband, Diego Rivera. The machine represents the mechanical process of a miscarriage. Lastly, the shattered pelvis is meant to be Frida's own, the reason she cannot bear children. This piece relates to my design because it is highly emotive, portrays a troubling experience. It too uses the connection between mother and child and the umbilical chord as a theme, although the relationship between mother and child is portrayed differently in my design and Frida Kahlo's painting. I could possibly take inspiration from Frida Kahlo and on the ends of each umbilical chord in my design I could have objects that relate to the theme of runaway.


Henry Ford Hospital


Below is Frida's painting The Two Fridas. It followed her divorce from Mexican painter Diego Rivera, who had many affairs during their marriage. The painting depicts two versions of Frida. On the right, the Frida that was loved by and married to Diego, and on the left, the broken hearted Frida whom Diego abandoned. The Frida on the left wears traditional Mexican dress and holds a locket holding Diego's portrait from when he was a child, while the Frida on the left is dressed in a more European style. Kahlo wrote in her diary that the idea came from an imaginary friend she had as a child and the painting reflects the emotional distress of her marriage and divorce. Both Friedas' hearts are exposed. Frida Kahlo often included exposed internal body part in her paintings to express emotional pain. The heart on the right is whole, symbolising when she was in love with Diego. The heart on the left has been ripped open, symbolising her heart break. The clouds in the background look wild and unruly, symbolising the emotional turmoil of the whole experience. The two Frida's hold hands, showing that the artist is her only companion in these unfortunate circumstances. A single vein links the hearts together and is eventually cut off by the Frida on the left who is then unable to control the bleeding. This could express a desire to harm herself after the divorce. The way the hearts are exposed makes the piece very emotive. If I put a heart on the outside of my outfit, I think it would express a lot more emotion, and I am aiming for a highly emotive piece. I designed a few outfits for the cancer patient theme with exposed internal body part, hinting at the physical damage of cancer. If I incorporated these elements into my final design, I think the design would be more emotive and even more relevant to the theme. Blood is also very emotive and shocking too. The scenery also depicts Frida Kahlo's feelings. Once I have designed the final look I could start thinking about how the background could help express the theme and mood. The Frida on the right holds a portrait of Diego. I previously had the idea for the cancer patient photo shoot to fill the background with photos of friends and family because I want the support aspect of experiencing cancer to be strongly expressed in the photo shoot for a more optimistic outlook on the illness.


The Two Fridas

Research Resources:

http://arthistory.about.com/od/from_exhibitions/ig/frida_kahlo/Frida-Kahlo-Henry-Ford-Hospital-1932.htm
http://littleblackbookofart.com/2010/04/24/most-comprehensive-show-of-frida-kahlos-work-ever-staged-opens-in-berlin/
http://www.artinternationalwholesale.com/Frida-Kahlo-reproduction-oil-paintings.html
http://accordingtohind.wordpress.com/2012/03/17/frida-kahlo/
http://www.artknowledgenews.com/Frida_Kahlo_Philadelphia_Museum_Of_Art.html
http://www.fridakahlofans.com/c0090.html
http://www.fridakahlofans.com/c0290.htm

Style Research: Fashion Magazines

I found several fashion images that I liked in leading fashion magazines such as Love, Dazed and Confused, i-D and Vogue. These images relate to my work because I will be creating two looks for high fashion photo shoots to be printed in a fashion magazine for youths. I have annotated each image so I could possibly refer back to them take a few elements from these images and use them in my own work:

I love the bright block colour of the outfit. I also love the bright lighting used for the shot.

I like how this shot is slightly blurry. It makes the girl look myserious.

I like this makeup look and how the features are heavily defined.

I like the model's porcelain skin and how her features have been defined with red lips and a subtle smokey eye. This images has an innocent like quality to it.

I like the three images below and the contrast between the avant-garde/high fashion style of the costumes and and the run down surroundings. These images could relate to my runaway theme. The costume is to be in the style of high fashion and avant-garde. Locations shots like these would go well with the theme as they could relate to the run down abandoned places runaways often live in.

I love the series of shot below with the Joker theme. I like the quirky nature of the images. I think they relate to some of my runaway designs because the outfits look like they have been assembled using found items. I like how in some of the looks, the makeup has childish crayon-like scribbles included. This adds to the playful nature of the images. I like the pale skin coupled with pops of colour.

I love the ecclectic and colourfl style of this girl (above). I think it relates to some of my runaway designs in the way items look like they have been tossed together. I also think this ecclectic style also relates to my audience as it is very popular in fashion right now.

I like the blend of metallic colours on the eyes.

I like how the makeup is made up of stickers. This relates to my work as I am looking for unconcentional methods of creating a makeup look. I also like the blue lips.

I like the striking colour gradient around the eyes and the blue lips. I also quite like the grainy quality of the image. It makes the image intrigueing

I like the architecturak structure of this garment. I think it also looks quite sinister which I like.

I like the high tonal contrast in this image. I also think the headdress looks very interesting, I am interested in experimenting with hair/headgear.

I like the bold block colour swept across the eyes.

 

 I like the natural feel of these location shots (above).

I like the dark lighting and shadows.

 

 I like the foggy quality of the two images above. I think this style would suit my "cancer" photo shoot.